Schengen Shuffle

by | Sep 23, 2021 | Greece, Ionian Sea, Mediterranean | 4 comments

There are so many places to see in the Cyclades Islands and we did see a lot. But, the clock is starting to tick a little faster and we need to make some definite plans to exit Greece. Our 90 days is drawing to an end. Need to start heading west so that we end up in the Ionian Sea and closer to Montenegro. The reason that we chose Montenegro to leave the boat for 7 MONTHS is mostly due to the fact that Montenegro is not part of the EU and we need to be out of the EU (Schengen countries) for another 90 days.

Montenegro has a lot to offer. A fancy marina with lots of amenities and a …. squash court …. it would be the first time on a court since June 2019 when my shoulder said f… you I’m not playing anymore. And Montenegro is duty free!

Getting back to our journeys, our crossing over the Aegean Sea will take us past a little port, Finikas on Siros Island for a very quiet anchorage with a gorgeous sunset. Not much to explore only a trip in to find an awesome ice cream/bakery shop and a little swim off the shore. We were encouraged by a lady and her husband not to bring the dingy in there as it was a “baño” for their personal swimming. We came to call this bobbing heads in the water (Greek past time for sure).

Next morning we set off for Kithnos and another quick overnight stop and a bite to eat at the dining hotspot in Apokrisi. They were very pleased to have guests again in the restaurant after being closed most of covid.

The original plan was to make the crossing in one go, so it meant starting very early in the morning. There was an option to stop at an island that was enroute, but as it turned out the island was nothing more than a rock planted in the middle of the sea with no shoreline. So we skipped that and carried on. It was a good sail most of the way and we only motored for a short period.

Monemvasia

Ended up in Monemvasia in the Peloponnese, which turned out to be a fantastic stop with the monastery on top of the hill as you come into the harbour and the old town taking up the bottom half of the hill. Hiked up to the top through the old town and purchased some admired olive wood cutting boards. It amazes me that people still live in these old towns that were constructed originally around the 12th century. There has also been a lot of care for the structures to try to maintain the buildings.

Next stop a small bay on the island of Elifonisos. Beautiful bay with clear water and more swimming off the back of the boat. And of course another great sunset.

Methoni

Left our little anchorage at Elfonisos and had a quick stop at Lemini. Not much here just another small harbour with fishing boats and tavernas ashore. We didn’t venture ashore here as there was not much to see. One of the boats anchored in front of dragged his anchor at around midnight and he moved over to another spot.

Picked up in the morning and moved over to Methoni which has a nice castle from the Venetian era around the 12th century. We got stamped in and out (again) and Shelley and I waited at a little tourist cafe for Jacqui to complete the check in/out procedure and had my (not first) greek coffee. Sip it cause the grounds will get you later.

Pilos

After Methoni we moved on to Pilos where we knew we could get some water. Had to arrange it with the nice harbour manager lady who turned out to have a very strong Aussie accent. Arranged it for 11 the next day. Wander around the town, found the laundromat, grocery etc.

Left there for Kypriassia where we could tie up to the dock for an evening. No water, nor fuel, no electricity. Just tie up to the dock (we haven’t mastered the Med mooring too chicken to experiment yet) so came alongside where we had the space. Nice gent was there to assist in the tie up so tossed him the bow line and not enough instruction, he ended up pulling the bow in from the amidship dock cleat and tied off before I even got off the boat with the midship line. It pulled the bow into the dock with a mighty crash and put a nasty welt on the boat bow, this is the same guy that had dragged his anchor from a couple of nights previous, no apology or anything, he just left it tied and off he went, moral to the story never assume a fellow sailor knows what the hell he is doing.

Turns out that many more than normal boats showed up that afternoon so we nicely offered a British yacht to raft up on our outside. They were a lovely couple and had a good chat with them receiving some really good tips on places to anchor as we continued up the coast.

Katakolo

Katakolo has a large influx of tourists that arrive by cruise ship and visit the Olympia site. This we did not visit as we only wanted to come have a look around and check-in and check-out. Had a coffee and then off we go next day for Zakynthnos.

Zakynthos

We knew Shelley’s time with us was coming to an end and needed to find the right place where she could arrange flights without too much difficulty. Turns out that Zakynthos or Zante has an international airport. Anchored in a very quiet bay on the south side and then next day moved over to the more populated area so that we could get ashore easier. The anchorage is right in the middle of the bay where the tourists go to see all the turtles. Masses of them descend on a section in small boats and watch the turtles. Some get in the water as well. Poor turtles!

Rented a car for the day and made the trip into the port so that we could, you guessed it, get checked-in and checked-out. What a pain. Had a good wander around the port streets. Very touristy.

Back to the harbour area where the boat was and it looks like a mini Las Vegas with all the neon and clubs and a huge amount of young visitors. Yea! What pandemic!

Courtesy of Pixabay

Decided on a restaurant up the hill for Shelley’s last night. Thought we would try the bar on Cameo island first with the foot bridge over to it. You can have a drink there but no food and it will cost you 5 Euros to get in. Forget it! Nice little restaurant up the hill more our style.

After we dropped Shelley at the airport the next morning we left and headed up the western side of the island to see if we could get into the shipwreck beach. Navagio Cove. You know the one with scene of the wreck that you see on all the pictures about Greece.

We were not able to get into the beach as there were numerous tourist boats and the swell in the cove was horrendous. But did snap a couple of picks of our own.

Our goal was to make it up to Corfu so that we could check-out of Greece and we made a few stops on the way up, some better than others. A very rolly night in Gidaki beach moved over to Vathi for a better night. Headed to Tranquil Bay next and was so overcrowded we said forget it and had to really struggle for our next place as the ones we looked at were either too exposed or too crowded. Found a small anchorage nicknamed Kiwi Cove because apparently there was at one time 4 Kiwi boats anchored there. Had a great chat with the boat next to us, an Irishman living in France and sailing out on his own. Very chatty. Told us some better stops.

The Canal

We wanted to get into Preveza in order to refuel and get some water. But, we had to go through the canal with the swinging drawbridge. No problem. We were timing it right so that we arrived at the bridge when it opened for canal traffic on the hour every hour. We motored along and were in the canal as the lead boat and then another 2 came out of the marina ahead of us. Perfect! Let them lead the way. As we got closer to the bridge another yacht came up a little faster and we figured he is going to fill the space that we left between us and the next yacht in front. Well, apparently he wanted to be the lead boat and ended up in front right at the time the bridge was opening. There is local rule for this canal in that the southbound traffic has the right of way. As the bridge swung open there was a huge motor yacht on the other side heading … southbound… This yacht that had taken the lead attempted to go through the channel first and found himself in big trouble as the motor yacht was starting to move. Suddenly all the crew on board were putting fenders out on the side to prevent any damage and they ended up sideways in the channel on the wrong side going backwards. While this is going on everyone else in the queue was waiting and we now had at least ten yachts wanting to go through. The bridge manager is trying to get everyone through and this yacht ended up continuing backwards on the other side as his crew mates were giving him a really bad time. Told Jacqui not to let him turn his boat around. One very embarrassed skipper I am sure!

Vonitsa

Went past Preveza cause we knew that we were stopping there the next day for water and fuel. Went a long way around for the next anchorage, Vonitsa. Very pleasant little town with, of course, another castle. Wandered up later in the day and the attendant gave us free entry.

Preveza

Next day it was off to Preveza for some fuel and water. Our plan was to go to Cleopatra Marina but because it was Sunday it was closed so had to go over to the Preveza Marina. Managed to fuel and water up and proceeded to the anchorage (found the marina fees way to pricey) and we don’t mind dinging into shore for an explore around the town. A lot more touristy but a pleasant experience.

Next stop, Paxos which is just before Corfu. Tried an anchorage that was just not going to work so we ended up in Lakka Bay with a thousand other boats. We anchored on the very outside edge so that we could escape in the morning easily.

Got out of there in the morning and motor sailed up to Corfu. When we arrived in the large bay area between Corfu island and the mainland a huge storm rocked up with 40 knot plus winds and pelting rain. We had seen the storm coming our way and put the mainsail away in anticipation of being hit with the storm 15 minutes later it was gone and the visibility improved drastically to a terrific view of the old town fortress. Anchored out on the far side and we will be here for a few days as we wait for the right time to check-out of Greece and make our way to Montenegro.

Took the bus into Corfu old town for a wander around. Again, it’s like the pandemic just doesn’t exist. So many tourists and without doubt the busiest place we have been in so far. At least we can say that we saw it and with us being here a couple more days we may make another visit.

As we are wrapping up our Greece visit we put together a quick map showing our stops along the way, all accomplished from July 19, 2021 to September 22, 2021 and I know there is so many more things to see but time and visas do not favour non EU vessels and residents. We are thinking maybe another year in the med could be in order……. exploring the idea anyway.

4 Comments

  1. Helen & Mike

    It all looks frigging amazing, can’t wait to climb up the hills?,( we’re in training!??‍♀️⛹‍♂️)greek dance ? and celebrate with ouzo?…..Umpa?? see you on the sunny coast ? your room looks friggin amazing ?

    Reply
    • Jacqui Smith

      Hope we can ouzo and umpa together next year will be fun and tell Mike looking forward to him flipping from the dark side back to the true sailor boy he is.

      Reply
  2. Karen Hamilton

    I would like to apply for Shelley’s vacated post (crew member, mayhem coordinator?) . Looks like an amazing adventure!!

    Reply
    • Jacqui Smith

      You are welcome anytime, it’s not always glamorous it’s like camping but with a few more conveniences ? and great sunsets!

      See you in November.

      Reply

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