One thing you have to admit is that Europe is OLD! Everywhere that we go here in Turkey there is always an ancient site/monastery/fort.
After getting all the work done in Marmaris it was time to go and relax and see what the other areas on the south coast of Turkey had to offer. Our first stop was Ekincik (pronounced Ekinsik or eggs and chips as we call it) and anchored for the night in the bay. Aladdin came by on his “taxi boat” and we told him we would come to the dock in the morning. Hooked up electricity and water, did laundry and found a nice place to have dinner that was recommended. Met a couple on a catamaran from Australia who had just come through the Suez Canal and were unprepared for the Med Mooring and they had to borrow a paserelle. One of the things to do in Ekincik is to take the Dalyan river cruise and visit the Tombs of the Kings in the ancient city of Kanous, so we negotiated with Aladdin to take the 4 of us on the cruise in his taxi boat.
“The city of Kaunos is believed to be founded by the Carians around 8th and 9th century BC. It gradually came under Greek influence by 5th century BC and later on became a Roman center like many other ancient cities in the Asia Minor. The settlement lasted up to 7th century AD and this Anatolian city with a complex history was a major naval trade route. Over the centuries, the city came under several influences like the Persian Empire, the Athenian League, Caria, Sparta, Rhodes, Macedonia, Ptolemaic Egypt, Pontus and eventually the Roman Empire. Kaunos can be said as a place on the edge, with a setting of different cultural spheres through the ages.”
On the way we stopped at turtle beach one of the main breeding grounds for loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta) in the Mediterranean. The loggerhead turtle is on the IUCN Red list of endangered animals. Further up the river was the ruins of the city of Kanous. Mythology has it that Kaunos was founded by King Kaunos, son of the Carian King Miletus and Kyane, and grandson of Apollo. Kaunos had a twin sister by the name of Byblis who developed a deep, unsisterly love for him. When she wrote her brother a love letter, telling him about her feelings, he decided to flee with some of his followers to settle elsewhere. His twin sister became mad with sorrow, started looking for him and tried to commit suicide. Mythology says that the Calbys river emerged from her tears.
From Ekincik we made our way down the coast towards Fethiye and made a stop at Blue Grotto overnight. Very quiet pleasant anchorage and our first real swim off the boat so far this year..
After the Blue Grotto we ventured off to the town of Fethiye to check it out but not without and attempt to go into Gocek. They call the bay around Gocek and Fethiye “Super Bay”. There are so many anchorages and little bays where you can drop the anchor but you better tie up to the shore because they are very deep. Did manage to find a small bay that was part of the camping site Kille Koyu, where we anchored for the night before going to check out Gocek. Gocek was so busy and the only place to anchor was over 20meters so we figured Fethiye would be a better bet. And it was. Arrived later in the day and went in to get rid of garbage and pick up a few things at the local store. We were trying to figure out what to do in Fethiye, you know “the top 10 things to do”. I gave up and thought we could just wander into the town and have a look around, but Jacqui found the next best thing. More ruins! Seems that Kanous is not the only place that carved tombs out of the rock in the side of the cliff.
Headed out in the dinghy first thing in the morning and found the ruins. She actually didn’t tell me that we were going to see more ruins. Became a nice surprise because who doesn’t like another set of ruins to learn about.
The impressive looking tomb was built in 350 BC, by the Lycians, the people who lived in this province of the Persian Empire at the time
So our next set of ruins was also a little surprise because we had no idea they were even there. The island of Gemiler or Gemiler Adasi, and if you happen to look at Google maps it is also called St. Nicholas Island. Saint Nicholas is the patron saint of sailors, merchants, archers, repentant thieves, children, brewers, pawnbrokers, unmarried people, and students in various cities and countries around Europe. His reputation evolved among the pious, as was common for early Christian saints, and his legendary habit of secret gift-giving gave rise to the traditional model of Santa Claus (“Saint Nick”) through Sinterklaas.
Only stayed 2 nights and then headed back to the Super Bay (Bay of Gocek) and found our little bay on the camp ground. Had great wind and direction going over there and managed 7 – 7.5 knots. Great sail!
The bay that we went into has a little self serve restaurant where we got a cheeseburger for 90 Tl and then we hiked over to the next door bay through all the brambles and got a coffee for 130 Tl. Great hike, very expensive coffee.
A unique thing that they have going on here is the floating supermarket. Migros and Carrefour, 2 of the biggest chains, will have the ships come out through the bay. I am sure that it is worth it for them during the summer sailing season with all the charter boats around, and the fact that you can’t get close to Gocek to stock up. Also a water boat to bring you fresh water! What next. Something that Uber might get involved in. Drive for Uber Turkey with a small boat delivering groceries and booze out to the anchorages in “Super Bay”.
After our stay in Kille Koyu we wanted to make our way back to Marmaris for a quick stopover and stock up before heading to Bozburan to meet up with Pete and Deb on Galene. They had made the 450 nm journey from Corfu to the Eastern Med in order to get into Turkey and out of Schengen.
Stayed in Bay of Marmaris for a couple of days. Arrived when it was very windy and would have liked the option of freefalling the anchor to get it down fast. That is one of the chores on the list is to get the windlass guy back out and see what gives with the freefall after we had it serviced last year. They were very accommodating and came out, well the young lad came out and took the windlass away. Thought we might have to wait till next day to get it but they were all done and came back at 5 to put it back on. Bit of a surprise as we were not expecting them that early. Just poured a beer in the restaurant so Jacs took them back to the boat while I finished my beer thinking that it would be a quick reinstall. Well over an hour later they got back. I would have indulged in another beer but low in cash. Now we have a freefalling anchor!
We experienced a real downpour and it was a chance to test out the theory of getting rainwater into the water tanks.
Made a couple more stops after leaving Marmaris in Ciftlik and Bozukkale West. From Bozukkale we would be able to meet up with Galene as they left Symi Island in Greece on their way to Bozburan to check in. And that is another story!
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